The flight was 12 hours - not 15 as I had been told. It was one of the smoothest flights I have ever been on and the service was very good; however, the seats were some of the smallest and most uncomfortable I've ever sat in. I loved the hostesses' smart uniforms and their little pill-box hats with a white silk scarf draped down one side of the head and wrapped around their shoulders. And everybody but everybody was incredibly helpful and genuinely kind. The stewardesses maintained the most cheerful attitude while providing us with two full meal services (with real forks and knives), some snack service, and constant provisions of water. I've never been called "madame" so many times in my life. The same is true for the hotel and airport personnel. They are all courteous and respectful without being obsequious. They are making me feel like royalty, even though I'm here on the airline's dime.
The airport at Abu Dhabi is absolutely amazing. It's a very large, modern airport with many high-end shops and amenities - quite fitting for an oil-rich gulf state. When the expansion is completed in 2015, it will serve 20 million visitors a year. One is very much immediately aware that one is in a different world with all of the Arabic men in long, light-weight white robes and the women in their heavy, black robes. (My observation on this? The men wear white which reflects the sun; women wear black which absorbs it. Just another method of repressing women, perhaps?)Working the customs counters were young men in long white robes and red and white checked head scarves. I assume they are Palestinians, but of course do not ask. One young man's head wear was bright and stiff and elaborately tied - reminding me somewhat of a peacock. Another fellow passed me and his was rather limp and drab. When I reached the counter I offered my passport to the young man who took it without looking at me. He looked very solemn and simply said, "You're lost?" I was rather taken aback and said, "N-no. I mean I've never been to Abu Dhabi before, but I think I'll be alright." Again he said, "You're lost?" This time I listened carefully and managed to catch his meaning. "Oh," I said. "Canfield." And then I laughed and he actually looked at me and smiled. "You may pass," he said, and he waved me through the line.
There are many service workers here from poorer countries. My cab drivers were from Sudan and Bangladesh. I understand there are many Nepalis here as well - a shy, young desk clerk was from Nepal. My Bangladesh driver was very talkative and my heart went out to him. Like the other workers, he lives alone because he can't afford to support his family here and he sends money back home to them. When I tipped him with two $5 bills - "One for each of your sons" - tears came into his eyes and he gave me a most sincere "God bless you, madame!"
The world is so big and yet people everywhere are very much the same, making the world feel so small.
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| Leaving the sands of Arabia |
